who want an accessible and comprehensive guide to the products, the techniques, and the dishes that constitute imperishable Italian cooking.'' From marinated carrot sticks to sweet-and-sour tuna steaks, Trapani style, to tortellini with fish stuffing and polenta shortcake with raisins, dried figs and pine nuts, the outstanding recipes-many of them poetically simple-are too numerous to do justice to in few words. A revision and update of her two previous ``classic'' Italian cookbooks (with more than 35 completely new recipes), this one includes recipes not ``in pursuit of novelty, but of taste.'' As Hazan puts it, the book ``is meant to be used as a kitchen handbook. In the language of cookbooks, the word ``classic'' is bandied about nearly as frequently as the terms ``low-fat'' and ``no-cholesterol.'' In this case, however, the estimable Hazan ( More Classic Italian Cooking ) does indeed contribute a classic to the ever-increasing literature of Italian cuisine.
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